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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.